There are so many fabrics to choose from, which can confuse first-time bra makers. The suitable material for a bra can be the difference between a comfortable, supportive, flattering bra and one that’s uncomfortable, sweaty and itchy!
The primary considerations in choosing the suitable bra making fabric are comfort, support and looks. When you’re making a bra, it’s essential to select a suitable material. You want it to be supportive but not too tight – a bra that’s too tight can make you feel uncomfortable and may ride up your back.
You also want it to be soft and comfortable against your skin. It should wick moisture away from your skin, and it shouldn’t be hard to care for.
Comfort
A good bra will feel soft and comfy against your skin. It will also give you the support you need. The materials used in making your bra can make all the difference in how comfortable it is and how well it holds its shape.
For instance, consider the benefits of using a power mesh or similar material for your cup liner. You can use this with a stretch fabric for a nice balance of stretch and support.
You can also use a stretch lace or stretch spandex for the frame and band. A 50%-30% stretch will work nicely for most bras.
The most important thing to remember when selecting your bra making fabric is that it needs to be durable, comfortable and stylish. This means you must choose a material that will last a long time, withstand many wash cycles and not attract body odors like polyester or polypropylene.
Choosing the suitable material can be daunting, especially when you are just starting and need help knowing where to start. However, once you understand what you want, sewing your bra becomes more fun and satisfying. The best part is that you can decide exactly what materials go into your next creation, allowing you to make the bra of your dreams without breaking the bank! It’s also a great way to learn how fabrics behave differently in other circumstances.
Stability
Whether you’re new to bra making or have been making your own for a while, it’s always good to be aware of the different features that make up a good bra. For starters, you’ll want to choose a stable bra-making fabric.
Some fabric choices for this feature are lace, stretch woven fabrics, and power mesh. You can use all three or combine them for more support and structure, depending on your preference.
If you’re making a basic bra, consider using a tricot interfacing or a fusible weft to add extra stability to the fabric. This will give you more flexibility in the final fabric choice and ensure a smoother, less bulky bra.
Another way to create a more regular bra is using high-quality European bra tulle. This fabric is self-lined in opposing stretch directions for stability and support. It can also be fused or bonded to another material.
Some bra-makers like to use lightweight, knitted interfacing to stabilize the lower cup cups and the bridge area of a bra. This fusible knit interfacing is light enough to fuse, but it has some mechanical give in the crosswise direction so that the straps and lower cup remain smooth and secure.
Durability
When looking for the right bra making fabric, you should focus on durability. Durability means your chosen material will hold up well over time and can be worn repeatedly. This is especially important if you want to make multiple bras in the same style, as you don’t want the same fabric to stretch and lose its support.
Several tests can assess durability, including abrasion resistance, colorfastness, fiber stiffness, and strength. These test results can help you decide whether a fabric will suit your project and, if so, what fabrics are best.
Cotton is a trendy bras fabric with many benefits: Breathable, comfortable, natural to the skin, absorbent and machine washable. It’s also durable and comes in a variety of styles.
Microfiber is another fabric famous for bras, as it has a very soft feel and is resistant to fading and tearing. It’s also very lightweight, breathable and fragile, making it ideal for this purpose.
The right type of needle is essential for successful bra-making. You’ll need several kinds, from universal hands to stretch and ballpoint needles for knitted fabrics that don’t include spandex.
You’ll also need a few specialty threads, including a poly thread for synthetic fabrics. A fine cotton thread is fine for bra-making projects that are 100% cotton, but a polyester thread is best for bras that have synthetic material in them.
Depending on the style of bra you’re making, you may need additional materials like lining fabric for support or strap elastic. The lining can be made of stretch fabric or lace, and it’s also used to stabilize the bridge in a front-hook bra.
Stretch
When choosing a bra-making fabric, you want to look for materials with low movement properties. This means that they won’t stretch and sag as you move around.
This is particularly important for your bra’s cup, frame and bridge components, as these pieces are designed to have little to no stretch. You’ll also need a fabric that has a firm, moderate or very low time for the band component of your bra so that it stays in place while you move.
Ideally, choose a fabric with a minimum of 25% stretch to create a comfortable bra that supports your bust well. This will ensure that the band will stay in place as you move while still providing the softness and breathable comfort you’ve come to expect from lingerie.
One way to test for a fabric’s stretch is to pull it across a ruler, measuring lengthwise and crosswise to see which direction has the most stretch. This is referred to as the “grainline” on most woven fabrics, but in bra-making patterns, it’s usually shortened to DOGS (Direction of Greatest Stretch), so be sure to pay attention to this line when laying out your pattern piece and to cut your fabric!
To make your fabric extra stretchy, try orienting the direction of the stretch so that it runs horizontally around the band of your bra. This helps prevent the bar from riding up your back and distorting your bra fit.
Another option is to layer stretch lace over a power net or any other stretchy fabric with enough stretch to keep your bra band in place. Test this combination in a toile (a.k.a. muslin) to ensure the bar is the right size for your comfort.
When selecting a fabric for your bra, take your time to consider your individual needs and how you’ll be wearing it. This will help you find the perfect fabric for your bra and boost your confidence when it comes time to sew it!
